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Early Spring

Lucas Capachin - Board Certified Master Arborist

Buds are swelling

Frost Damaged Leaf
Frost Damage
Trees prepare for the cold winter months in many ways to prevent damage to their cells. If trees start to reverse this process too early, a hard freeze can cause ice crystals to form in their cells. This can cause branch tips to die, or sometimes even entire branches or trees will die from frost damage. More information on frost damage can be found in a previous article I wrote found here. Trees that typically suffer the most from these cold snaps are stone fruit trees (all trees in the genus Prunus) and elms. A few years ago many pears were also severely affected. Unfortunately there isn’t much that can be done to prevent frost damage, although shaking snow off of trees and preventing the branches from dropping in temperature too much can help.
Ash Tree Damaged by Frost

Fruit Production


Fruit trees require their flowers to be pollinated, and the pollinated ovaries must develop for there to be fruit. Colorado often experiences years with no fruit production because a cold snap can freeze off either the flower or the pollinated ovary. The ovary is the part of the flower which remains after the petals fall off. Both the flowers and ovaries are very sensitive to cold temperatures, and they will often die if we get excessively cold temperatures after they start to flower. As with frost damage there isn’t much we can do to prevent the damage to the flowers/ovaries, although preventing snow from sitting on them for too long can give them a slightly better chance of survival.



Peach Tree Covered in Fruit

Storm Damage 


Spring snows and the heavy winds associated with spring storms are much more likely to cause damage to trees if they have leaves (or flowers) on them. That’s why early warm temperatures followed by winter weather is so tough on trees. Fortunately, this is the one issue that can be mitigated or prevented. Shaking snow off trees obviously helps for small ornamental trees, but with larger trees this is impractical or impossible. Fortunately properly pruning trees can make a massive difference as to whether they will survive heavy winds or snow. If done correctly a pruned tree will see little to no damage, even in a bad unseasonable snow, which is why we generally see tree damage in unpruned trees. To read more on the science behind proper pruning there’s an article on it here, often trees in city parks or in areas where people take less care of their trees is where we see the most storm damage. One problem is that many arborists give pruning a bad name because they don’t give trees the proper care they need to prevent damage (read our article linked previously for more information).



Giant Cottonwood on House

An early spring is not all bad news. Many insects will come out of dormancy early, and some of the tree damaging pests may get hit by a hard freeze along with the trees. This could mean pest populations will be lower this year. But a hard freeze won’t discriminate between pests and beneficial insects, so the good bugs will suffer the same fate as the pests. The bottom line is that trees are going to have a hard time this summer unless it stays warm for the rest of March, and it doesn’t snow late into spring. Anyone who has spent any time in Colorado knows that there’s pretty much no chance this will happen. I’m hopeful that my predictions don’t come true, but unfortunately this is the reality of the life of a tree in Colorado’s front range. Call us if you have any trees you want taken care of before we get our inevitable spring storms.

By Lucas Capachin - Board Certified Master Arborist October 16, 2024
Watering newly planted trees The key is to make sure the tree gets enough water, but not too much. Typically you want to water a newly planted tree every 3-5 days, depending on how hot it is and how much rain there has been recently. The best way to know if you should water more or less is to just stick a finger into the dirt by the base of the tree before watering, if it feels very dry water more often, if its still very wet, water less often. Whoever sells the tree will have more advice on exactly how much each species needs and how often, but its very important to make sure its not getting overwatered or under watered. Every planting site is different, some have more runoff from gutter or other hard surfaces like concrete patios, others have better drainage. You just need to monitor the soil and get a feel for the specific tree's water needs in that spot. Large trees Autumn blaze maple - Maples can be prone to chlorosis but it can be managed. Its pretty much the only tree on the list that grows fast at all. Catalpa - I have almost never cut out a broken branch from one and don’t know if I've ever seen a dead one. Some people object to the giant seed pods. Kentucky coffeetree - very rarely break in storms. Burr oak - very rarely break in storms. Honeylocust - very rarely break in storms, thyronectria canker can be an issue on larger trees but generally isn’t an issue for the first 30-40 years Hackberry - Good tree, only issue is they are covered in hackberry nipple gall (funny name, I know). It doesn’t impact the health of tree at all, it's just an aesthetic issue. Small Smoke bush - Royal purple variety looks great and is a nice contrast in green yards. Flowers look cool. Redbud - Beautiful pink flowers in the spring. Prefers shaded areas, no direct sun all day. Good to plant with a larger tree that will give it shade for 1/2-1/3 of the day, relatively fast growing for being a small tree. Japanese tree lilac - Yellow flowers in the spring, I've never seen a dead one so they clearly do well in Colorado. Service berry - Native shrub to Colorado with nice spring flowers. Small berries attract birds in fall, awesome fall color. Amur maple - Grows fast (almost too fast sometimes) Awesome fall color. Peach - Don’t plant if you don’t like peaches! (If you don’t like them your neighbors probably do though). Grows very fast, in years where they produce fruit it can be excessive amount and can even cause damage to the tree. The weight of fruit will break branches as they ripen so be aware in the fall. Grows very fast for a small tree. For those looking for a really thorough discussion on trees from CSU extension, this link is a list of literally every tree in Colorado. It's got far more information than almost anyone needs but it does rank trees as recommended or not. https://planttalk.colostate.edu/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/2024-Front-Range-Tree-List.pdf
By Lucas Capachin - Board Certified Master Arborist October 16, 2024
This linden isn’t getting enough water. Lindens typically need much more water than trees of other species in the same area. You can often identify the issue earlier in the year when you see browning along the edges of the leaf during the warmer months. Watering during the winter isn't always needed but it can give a tree like this the best chance to recover. Watering Article Winter Watering Article
By Lucas Capachin - Board Certified Master Arborist October 16, 2024
I recently took a call from a fellow tree company owner. He was asking if I offer tree fertilization and offered me a commission on any sales I referred to his company. I told him I do not and then asked what the benefits of fertilizing trees were. I was curious if he knew what he was selling. The answer confirmed my suspicions that he doesn't actually understand the effects of fertilizing trees in Colorado. I decided to take 30-45 minutes out of my day to explain why fertilization is bad for trees in Colorado 99% of the time, and I also gave him alternative strategies that actually can help trees. I've often heard about fertilization from other companies as a great way to get more money per tree and a source of recurring revenue. Just upsell the customer on fertilization because “its good for the tree." I then decided to do some research, which confirmed my belief that in Colorado fertilizing trees generally leads to more adverse than positive effects. In this article I’ll go through the primary impacts that fertilization has on trees and why most of them are not beneficial for trees in Colorado.
By Lucas Capachin- Board Certified Master Arborist July 11, 2024
Do My Trees Need Water? A tree's roots will generally spread at least 2-3 times the width of the canopy of the tree. In Colorado landscapes that means that much of the roots exist in areas that do not get enough water. Watering should be focused within the drip line of the tree. The drip line is the entire circumference of the canopy of the tree where water would drip from the leaves and branches. Even if there is a garden bed that has some irrigation for plants planted in that area it is usually not enough for the trees, these systems are designed to give just enough water for the plants there and they rarely supply enough water for the tree. Any area within the drip line of the tree that has soil underneath should get supplemental watering including rock beds and even your deck. Yes, your neighbors may look at you strange when you are watering your deck but that is a small price to pay for healthy trees.
By Lucas Capachin - Board Certified Master Arborist March 9, 2023
The key is to prune the trees before the snows come as this will mitigate the damage from heavy snow. Although pruning cannot guarantee that there won’t be any broken branches - it certainly does help. The issue is apples can only be pruned while there are no leaves on them because ((fireblight link)) can spread if they are pruned at the wrong time of year. Don’t forget to learn to identify fireblight and manage it early to prevent serious issues, our article has many photos and information to help. So feel free to contact us about your apples if you want to have them pruned before they start to leaf out. If you don’t want to prune them don’t forget to knock the snow off if we get a storm. If you want to try your hand at pruning youself this video gives a bunch of good advice!
Trees, Pesticides, and Pollinators
By Lucas Capachin - Board Certified Master Arborist March 20, 2021
Pesticides are often overused or misused and the negative consequences can be devastating to non target organisms
Tree Growth Regulators and their surprising benefits to tree health
By Lucas Capachin - Board Certified Master Arborist March 12, 2021
From increased drought tolerance to decreased need for pruning PBZ is a valuable tool for arborists
By Lucas Capachin - Board Certified Master Arborist March 4, 2021
I often hear “winter is the best time to prune trees”. This, like many over generalizations is not always correct. When to prune is often dependent upon the goal you wish to achieve for your trees. We are actually fortunate in Colorado - most trees can be pruned any time of the year. With winter pruning we can see the structure of the tree without it’s leaves. For trees that are weak, pruning in winter helps them retain vigor through the growing season. Preventing storm damage In Colorado one of the major causes of tree issues is from our severe storms. We can have both high winds and heavy, unseasonable snow here. A more structurally sound, recently pruned tree canopy will eliminate weak limbs and decrease the surface area for the snow and wind to act upon. Thereby reducing the forces imparted on the tree and limiting the chance of storm damage. Disease prevention There is one group of trees that is best pruned in winter - species which are susceptible to fire blight. In Colorado there are four main trees that are susceptible, they are mountain ash (Sorbus), apples/crabapples (Malus), hawthorn (Crataegus), and pear (Pyrus). Creating new wounds from pruning during the growing season will increase the chances of it contracting fire blight, so that’s why we try to prune these trees in winter. Here is a link to our article on fire blight. FoothillsArborists.com/Fire-blight Resource allocation In spring trees use a large amount of water and nutrients to create new leaves. Trees grow fastest in early spring, this can be seen by looking at growth rings, the larger lighter colored rings are formed in early spring, the darker skinny sections in the later months of the growing season. Spring is also when new shoots appear and growth occurs. If pruning is done before this flush of growth it means that the tree will push out more new growth on the remaining branches. It will fill out quicker than if it were pruned after the flush of new spring growth. If done later in the season there will be less growth in response to the old cuts. This will decrease the new growth on the tree. Therefore one drawback of winter pruning is that pruning may need to be done again sooner as new spring growth will occur more quickly than with later pruning. If a tree is severely stressed it may be advisable to only prune in late winter to minimize stress and retain it’s resources for new growth in the spring on the remaining branches. Wound compartmentalization Wounds can come from pruning, nature’s forces breaking branches, or pests and disease. Trees do not heal wounds like we do when a cut in our skin is healed with new tissue growth replacing the damaged tissue. They can only seal off the exposed inner wood to prevent damage to nearby healthy tissue. The tree forms barriers to prevent wood-decay fungus from progressing into the heartwood of the tree. If large cuts are needed, for instance to remove a large broken limb, pruning in the winter will give it a head start on closing that wound. Pruning before the growing season will give your tree a head start on covering up the wounds. Although this is one of the main reasons given for winter pruning, it usually will not make a significant difference if pruning is done right - as only small cuts should generally be made and these are much easier for the tree to seal off. When people ask me “When is the best time to prune my trees?” I usually respond by saying “Before they are damaged in a storm”. The extreme weather we get in Colorado is hard on trees, and very few of the trees we plant evolved in this climate. The trees we have brought to Colorado and nurture here are not prepared for the extreme wind or early/late snowstorms when they are leafed out. Our main goal with pruning is to prevent this sort of damage from occurring. In the best case, loss of major branches leaves a less attractive tree. In the worst case, it can lead to the decline and death of the entire tree. Fortunately most trees can be pruned any time of the year, and that is why I rarely recommend delaying pruning. You never know when the next tree damaging storm will hit. There is nothing worse than showing up to prune a tree and seeing that it has been recently damaged by a storm, so it is almost always better to prune as soon as possible.
Winter watering
By Lucas Capachin - Board Certified Master Arborist February 25, 2021
Even while dormant trees continue to grow and respire so its important to give them the water they need.
By Lucas Capachin - Board Certified Master Arborist July 29, 2020
Chlorosis is a general term for foliage that is not producing adequate chlorophyll. This leads to a yellow or pale appearance. The lack of chlorophyll means that the plant's most important process is being interrupted. If not corrected, chlorosis will lead to dieback of branches and eventually the entire tree. Chlorosis generally is caused by a lack of iron, but it may also be caused by a deficit in other micronutrients as well. Iron is present in most Colorado soils but due to low pH it cannot be absorbed by the trees. How Can I Identify Chlorosis in My Trees? Chlorosis is a major problem with maple and oak trees in Colorado, although many other species can also be affected. The signs of chlorosis are any leaves or branches in the tree with inconsistent color. Parts of the tree may appear lime green while other parts are a deeper green. In advanced stages leaves will turn yellow and almost white at times. If you look at a leaf and the veins are darker green but the rest of the leaf is lighter in color - that is chlorosis.
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